Root Searching (part 2)
Root Searching (part 2) 21 – 23 June 2008
"Is the root edible?" Gibson asks. “It must be and very sweet too!” he reckons, otherwise why would 3 persons (Istinna's parents & sister) travel miles from Singapore the day before, to join 3 others (Istinna, Gibson and me) in Hong Kong, all wake up at 5ish on a beautiful (after 20 days of rains!) Saturday morning to travel 6 hours to Swatow to embark on this root searching expedition. We leave Hong Kong via Shatoujiao (沙头角) and enter Shenzhen via Yantian (盐田). The bus travels along the coastal path – very picturesque setting – the ocean on one side, paddy fields, fruit (mostly lychee) trees, big fields, farms on the other side.
It is good to be back to Swatow (汕头) – where everyone speaks Teochew, also a place where most young Thai Teochew Chinese claim it's their ancestral birthplace (a "fact" I learnt in my recent Bangkok trip).
After lunch in Swatow, we travelled about 45 minutes to Jieyang (揭阳) – our first mission – search for the root of Istinna's dad – the Lim 林 family. Jieyang town is very clean, and organized. We stayed at Rongjiang Hotel 榕江大酒店 which faces the landmark Rongjiang River 榕江 – a river that comes alive with musical fountain cum laser show every Saturday evening!
After gotten our basic “ammunition” for the mission – i.e. 2 taxi and address, we started off around 3ish pm to Guangmei (广美) – on the eastern side of Jieyang province. About 20minutes later, we were on the road - beeping one another on the walkie talkie, stopping now and then to make inquiries. At the 1st brief stop Shangweicun 上围村, we learnt it's a Ng 黄family village and we were redirected to another village “Gangkou” 港口for the Lim's. Here, we stopped for an hour or so while helpful villagers made contact and further inquiries for Istinna's dad. Our mission is pretty difficult considering there is hardly any contact between Singapore & China in past few decades or so. While waiting, we chatted with the villagers, provision shopkeepers, walked around the compound. We spotted longan, guava, mango trees. The most beautiful sight is probably seeing a herdsman herding his flock of milk goats past us.
Armed with a telephone no. of a local villager and a location, we set off again to a place called Linpan (霖磐) which is 1 hour away, on the western side of Jieyang. At 6ish pm, we found the Lim's ancestral home! Istinna and family chatted with the villagers, were shown around the place – where the ancestors lived etc. I was particularly delighted to see a Catholic St Joseph's Church right in the centre of the Lim's village – at the time of our visit, villagers were praying (in Teochew) the rosary (I think).
1st mission accomplished! We (particularly Istinna's dad) were very happy and relieved. Though tired, we all look forward to our next mission - search for the root of Istinna's mum – the Fang方family.
It was also a beautiful bright sunny Sunday! We hired the same 7-seater van and driver that took us from Swatow to Jieyang. The driver does not know Jieyang and Puning area very well but we are prepared – a seasoned navigator (Gibson) and maps! It was a day of getting lost, retracing the route, making u-turns, riding bumpy road (lots of potholes), making many stops to inquire – but both driver and navigator were rewarded with loud applauses from the passengers whenever we were back on track.
Prior to commencing our mission, we toured around Jieyang town – a walk in West Lake (西湖), a visit to 2 temples (城皇庙, 双峰寺). We were all tired walking in the burning sun and took air con cum sweet pineapple break at a McDonald's restaurant.
At 2ish pm, we set off for our 2nd mission – Guangdai (广太) in Puning (普宁) province - about 30 min from Jieyang town. We found the village (广太墟) but learnt that the ancestral line of Istinna's mum is probably at another place called Hongyang (洪阳). We traveled another 45 min or so to and fro, stopping to make inquiries etc. With many guidance angels (villagers who lead the way on bike or joining us in our van, and angels including another herd of milking goats we saw on the way) we found the Fang's ancestral shrine at Hongyang. At the shrine, Istinna and family paid respects to their ancestors. The shrine is well maintained and lavishly decorated with donations from well wishers – Fangs from overseas in Canada, Thailand, Cambodia, Singapore etc.
2nd and final mission accomplished! We (particularly Istinna's mum) were very happy and relieved again. Indeed it's a day for Istinna's mum for this day is also her birthday! We travelled to Puning town to spend the night at Jinye Hotel (金叶大厦) next to the landmark Liusha river (流沙河). On the way from Hongyang to Puning town, we passed by Daba (大坝) where I found my Ng 黄 root last year.
The next day, another bright sunny Monday, we relaxed by walking in Puning town, visited the bookstore and supermarket before returning to Hong Kong. This is a heartfelt trip for all of us (esp. Istinna's parents) and for me, the trip also reaffirms the pride of my Chinese roots. Indeed, the roots are sweet (felt from the mouth to the heart) despite the slight bitter after taste (headache, fever etc from the travelling and weather). I would certainly encourage you to start searching and digging for your root if you've not already done so!
"Is the root edible?" Gibson asks. “It must be and very sweet too!” he reckons, otherwise why would 3 persons (Istinna's parents & sister) travel miles from Singapore the day before, to join 3 others (Istinna, Gibson and me) in Hong Kong, all wake up at 5ish on a beautiful (after 20 days of rains!) Saturday morning to travel 6 hours to Swatow to embark on this root searching expedition. We leave Hong Kong via Shatoujiao (沙头角) and enter Shenzhen via Yantian (盐田). The bus travels along the coastal path – very picturesque setting – the ocean on one side, paddy fields, fruit (mostly lychee) trees, big fields, farms on the other side.
It is good to be back to Swatow (汕头) – where everyone speaks Teochew, also a place where most young Thai Teochew Chinese claim it's their ancestral birthplace (a "fact" I learnt in my recent Bangkok trip).
After lunch in Swatow, we travelled about 45 minutes to Jieyang (揭阳) – our first mission – search for the root of Istinna's dad – the Lim 林 family. Jieyang town is very clean, and organized. We stayed at Rongjiang Hotel 榕江大酒店 which faces the landmark Rongjiang River 榕江 – a river that comes alive with musical fountain cum laser show every Saturday evening!
After gotten our basic “ammunition” for the mission – i.e. 2 taxi and address, we started off around 3ish pm to Guangmei (广美) – on the eastern side of Jieyang province. About 20minutes later, we were on the road - beeping one another on the walkie talkie, stopping now and then to make inquiries. At the 1st brief stop Shangweicun 上围村, we learnt it's a Ng 黄family village and we were redirected to another village “Gangkou” 港口for the Lim's. Here, we stopped for an hour or so while helpful villagers made contact and further inquiries for Istinna's dad. Our mission is pretty difficult considering there is hardly any contact between Singapore & China in past few decades or so. While waiting, we chatted with the villagers, provision shopkeepers, walked around the compound. We spotted longan, guava, mango trees. The most beautiful sight is probably seeing a herdsman herding his flock of milk goats past us.
Armed with a telephone no. of a local villager and a location, we set off again to a place called Linpan (霖磐) which is 1 hour away, on the western side of Jieyang. At 6ish pm, we found the Lim's ancestral home! Istinna and family chatted with the villagers, were shown around the place – where the ancestors lived etc. I was particularly delighted to see a Catholic St Joseph's Church right in the centre of the Lim's village – at the time of our visit, villagers were praying (in Teochew) the rosary (I think).
1st mission accomplished! We (particularly Istinna's dad) were very happy and relieved. Though tired, we all look forward to our next mission - search for the root of Istinna's mum – the Fang方family.
It was also a beautiful bright sunny Sunday! We hired the same 7-seater van and driver that took us from Swatow to Jieyang. The driver does not know Jieyang and Puning area very well but we are prepared – a seasoned navigator (Gibson) and maps! It was a day of getting lost, retracing the route, making u-turns, riding bumpy road (lots of potholes), making many stops to inquire – but both driver and navigator were rewarded with loud applauses from the passengers whenever we were back on track.
Prior to commencing our mission, we toured around Jieyang town – a walk in West Lake (西湖), a visit to 2 temples (城皇庙, 双峰寺). We were all tired walking in the burning sun and took air con cum sweet pineapple break at a McDonald's restaurant.
At 2ish pm, we set off for our 2nd mission – Guangdai (广太) in Puning (普宁) province - about 30 min from Jieyang town. We found the village (广太墟) but learnt that the ancestral line of Istinna's mum is probably at another place called Hongyang (洪阳). We traveled another 45 min or so to and fro, stopping to make inquiries etc. With many guidance angels (villagers who lead the way on bike or joining us in our van, and angels including another herd of milking goats we saw on the way) we found the Fang's ancestral shrine at Hongyang. At the shrine, Istinna and family paid respects to their ancestors. The shrine is well maintained and lavishly decorated with donations from well wishers – Fangs from overseas in Canada, Thailand, Cambodia, Singapore etc.
2nd and final mission accomplished! We (particularly Istinna's mum) were very happy and relieved again. Indeed it's a day for Istinna's mum for this day is also her birthday! We travelled to Puning town to spend the night at Jinye Hotel (金叶大厦) next to the landmark Liusha river (流沙河). On the way from Hongyang to Puning town, we passed by Daba (大坝) where I found my Ng 黄 root last year.
The next day, another bright sunny Monday, we relaxed by walking in Puning town, visited the bookstore and supermarket before returning to Hong Kong. This is a heartfelt trip for all of us (esp. Istinna's parents) and for me, the trip also reaffirms the pride of my Chinese roots. Indeed, the roots are sweet (felt from the mouth to the heart) despite the slight bitter after taste (headache, fever etc from the travelling and weather). I would certainly encourage you to start searching and digging for your root if you've not already done so!
posted by Mae @ 6:34 PM
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