Eastern China

Eastern China 华东 27 Jan – 2 Feb 2006

What is it like joining a Hong Kong tour group to China two provinces & one city in 7 days during Chinese New Year? While mainland tour guide speaks excellent Cantonese, my mind races to and fro between Cantonese & Mandarin trying to decipher name of historical persons, places or events etc. Most shops are closed, streets are fairly quiet except for tourist attractions and we are treated to beautiful fireworks nightly. Overall, it’s an enjoyable but tiring sightseeing, history lesson, dining and shopping spree.

1. Nanjing 南京 (Jiangsu Province 江苏省) also known as Jiling金陵, Jiangning江宁 in olden days, encountered many sad events in history but has produced strong minded people. In 1368, commoner/poor peasant turned Emperor Zhu Yuan Zhang 朱元璋 (also known as 明太祖, 洪武) established Ming Dynasty明朝here (named Ying Tian Fu应天府). After his death, his son stole the kingdom from his grandson and moved the capital to Beijing 北京. In 1842, the Opium War ended with an unequal treaty signed here where the Qing Dynasty ceded Hong Kong Island to Britain for 150years. In 1851, Taiping Heavenly Kingdom’s 太平天国 founder Hong Xiu Quan 洪秀全 led a 14 years peasant uprising in the name of Christianity here (named Tianjing天京). In 1937, Nanjing was raped by Japanese in which 300,000 people were killed.

Today, the Ming Palace is completely ruined but parts of the Ming City Wall (台城) remain. The wall spanning 33km is the longest city wall in the world. Emperor Zhu’s tomb 明孝陵 remains unopened.

Nanjing Yangtze River Bridge 南京长江大桥, the pride of the Mainland Chinese, was officially opened in Dec 1968. The 4.5km double deck (car/rail) bridge was designed, built and funded entirely by the Chinese people after the Russian pulled out from the initial co-operation.

Qinhuai River 秦淮河, a river intercepted by Emperor Qinshihuang 秦始皇to reduce its might. It also tells the legend of 8 beauties who lived along the river. Today, the river bustles with shops & restaurants for tourists.

2. Wuxi 无锡 (Jiangsu Province江苏省), a small town which runs out of metal but boosts one of China’s largest fresh water lake Taihu 太湖. Xihui Garden 锡惠公园, a beautiful Ming style garden which ‘borrows’ a pagoda faraway to enhance its beauty & sense of vastness. There is also China’s second best spring water well.

3. Suzhou 苏州 (Jiangsu Province 江苏省) Venice of the East, is a beautiful town with low rise whitewash houses, cobbled streets, tree-lined avenues along the canal. Suzhou is also well known for its exquisite silk & silk embroidery – the amazing artwork of beautiful embroidered pictures on both side of a single silk cloth. Couple’s Garden 藕园 - a private house with a big garden. A Tang poet 张继wrote a poem about the 1500 years old Hanshan Temple 寒山寺 - <枫桥夜泊> 月落鸟啼霜满天, 江枫渔火对愁眠, 姑苏城外寒山寺, 夜半锺声到客船.
4. Wuzhen乌镇 (Zhejiang Province 浙江省) named after a Tang Dynasty official, is a small town with shops, restaurants built around a canal. You could find a distillery and cloth printing (blue floral print) factory.

5. Hangzhou杭州 (Zhejiang Province 浙江省)’s symbolic West Lake 西湖 is not as big and as beautiful (paradise on earth) as I imagine it to be. However, eatery by the lake 西湖新天地 has a beautiful, cozy ambience. We strolled along Changqiao Garden 长桥公园 which overlooks Pagoda 雷峰塔 at West Lake. Hu Xueyan (an imperial official cum businessman)’s residence 胡雪严故居 is spacious and has beautiful wall carvings.

In Hangzhou, we’d a Lunar New Year celebration dinner together with 200 other Hong Kong tourists from the same travel agency. Apparently China Travel Service is the largest and most reputable agency.

Song Dynasty Theme Park 宋城 temple fair (carnival during Lunar New Year) has many interesting displays of trade during the olden days. A musical show that traces China history & legendary story is captivating – amazing acrobatic skill, beautiful costume, fantastic sound effect, moving / rising stage, laser light and artificial waterfall.

6. Shanghai City上海市 - A cruise along Huangpu River 黄埔江 gives you a magnificent view of the beautiful buildings at 外滩The Bund (Paris of the East). Look out for the tall space ship look-a-like Oriental Pearl Tower 东方明珠塔, tall sword like Jinmao Building 金茂大厦, grand old lady Peace Hotel 和平饭店. Have a drink at the popular watering hole Xintiandi 新天地. Visit Song Qingling宋庆玲’s residence (wife of China’s founding father Sun Yatsen 孙中山), walk around the beautiful landscaped Yu Garden 豫园.

This trip is also an interesting dining experience: Nanjing salted duck 壏水鸭, Nanjing duck blood vermicelli 鸭血粉丝, Wuxi sweet & sour sparerib无锡排骨, Suzhou pine seed sweet & sour fish 松鼠桂花鱼, Taihu hairy crab太湖大闸蟹, Hangzhou braised pork (东波肉), Hangzhou Guihua Cake桂花糕, Shanghai dumpling 小龙包.

We shop for snacks & little gifts at Wuxi street 观前街, Hangzhou street清河坊古街, Shanghai street南京街, Shanghai temple 城隍庙. We pack our baggage with Wuxi sand tea ware 紫砂茶具, Wuxi fresh water pearl, Suzhou silk blanket & silk embroidery, Hangzhou West Lake Longjing tea 西湖龙井茶, Hangzhou Chrysanthemum 胎菊, Shanghai pi-xiu貔貅 (also known as 辟邪, a legendary animal that could ward off evil and brings good luck. It has a dragon head, horse body, lion claw, deer horn, long beard and a pair of wings.)

On the last day, we rode 8mins on the Shanghai Maglev (Magnetic levitation) 磁浮Train (look pretty much like bullet train) to Shanghai Pudong 蒲东 Airport which is 30km away. Everyone went home happily packed with well whet stomach (and additional body weight!), sound China history, abundant souvenirs and perhaps with a smaller wallet.


Yangtze Delta 长江三角洲 - Suzhou 苏州, Hangzhou杭州, Shanghai City上海市
Paradise on earth - Suzhou 苏州, Hangzhou杭州, 上有天堂, 下有苏杭

Victoria Harbour

Fragrant* Victoria Harbour
29May 2005

Ship, vessel, ferry, boat, trawler, hydrofoil **
Some single deck, some double deck
Criss-crossing the harbour
Leaving behind a long trail of white foam
Ferrying people to outlaying islands, businessmen to parts of China
Or ‘turbojet-ing’ fortune seekers to Macau

It is a beautiful breezy summer lazy*** Sunday afternoon
Sitting by the window of my apartment
Sipping tea, eating pumpkin cheesecake
Watching the 5 golden towers of China HK City Terminal
Glitter like treasure boxes under the late afternoon sun
Harbour City building’s reflection shimmering on the water
Eagles soaring high in the sky, helicopter flying from Macau
And a great mountain scenery as a beautiful backdrop

I thanks God for creating such a beauty!

* not so fragrant when the diesel smell is overwhelming
** missing sampan
*** a break I needed after weeks of visitors and traveling. Lost my voice, nursing flu, sore throat and cough

Cambodia - Land of Contrast

Cambodia 柬 埔 寨 – land of contrast 30 Jan – 5 Feb 2005

A land of contrast – in Siem Reap you marvel at Angkor Wat and enjoy the laid back life. One hour’s flight away in Phnom Penh, you grieve for the soul who suffered during the infamous genocide.

Siem Reap 显粒– Angkor Wat 吴哥窟

Angkor period (9th to 13th century) is probably the most prosperous time in Khmer civilization. Many magnificent monuments were built. Angkor means city, Wat temple. This close to 1000years old temple is an example of classical khmer architecture that combines Indian and Indochinese culture. The sandstone temple is built in honour of the Indian God Vishnu which is often depicted with the bird Garuda. It has 5 towers, 3 levels and it is surrounded by beautiful palm trees and a big moat. Admire the large walls with intricate carving which tells the story of Ramayana.

Besides Angkor Wat, there are many beautiful temples nearby. Southern Gate of Angkor Thom has a huge tower with 4 Buddha. Hollywood movie “Tomb Raider” was filmed at Angkor Wat, Bayon as well as Ta Prohm Temple. 54 towers (representing 54 states governed by Cambodian during Angkor period and these included part of present day Thailand, Vietnam & Laos) used to grace Bayon Temple but they are mostly ruined now. Fortunately, the mystical smiling Buddha is well preserved. At Ta Prohm Temple, look at how spong trees grow into / over the temple. Wall carvings at the pink sandstone Banteay Srey Temple are extremely intricate. Naga (snake) and Apsara (dancer) commonly decorated these temples.

Floating village at Thonle Sap Great Lake (the biggest fresh water lake in Asia – bigger than Singapore) – has all that you need – school, clinic, church, provision, restaurant – all floating on drums, bamboo, tyres!

At Angkor Silk Farm & Artisans D’Angkor, we learnt how worm weaves cocoon to hide itself before maturing as adult insect, how cocoon is made into silk thread, how silk thread is weaved into cloth. At night, we were treated to a cultural dance while having our dinner. We made friends with Chinese Cambodian salesgirls who speak fluent Mandarin.


Phnom Penh 金边 – Toul Sleng Genocide Museum, Cheong Ek Killing Field

A morning tour that set us in a very sombre mood. Toul Sleng Genocide Museum – the former Toul Sray Prey High School that turned into hell on earth – a prison and torture chamber. From 1975 to 1978, millions innocent Cambodians suffered or perished in the hands of the Khmer Rouge Regime led by Pol Pot in his quest for power and control. It was particularly heartbreaking and uneasy to walk right into the crime scene and imagine the horrific suffering as we looked at the various gadgets used for torture, photo of victims and torture scenes. We went into the tiny prison cells (some tainted with blood that dried up long ago but not forgotten) and read account of survivors and soldiers. 15km away at Cheong Ek Killing Field, skulls and clothes remnants of victims are placed in a memorial supta. As we walked in the field, we could see bits and pieces of tooth, bones in the killing pits. I could still feel the chill in my bone now while recalling the tour to write this journal. Pray that these poor souls rest in peace!

At Royal Palace, we visited the Coronation Hall, Assembly Hall, looked at the costumes and items used during King’s coronation. At National Museum, we looked at various Angkorian era statues. At Central Market, we sat on low stool to have local dessert, at Russian Market we shopped for silk cloth. We also stopped by to visit Silver Pagoda, Wat Phnom Temple and the Independent Monument (to commemorate liberation from France who ruled from 1887 to 1953). A leisurely cruise and a dinner by the Mekong River complete our tour.

Cambodia Today - mainly low rise buildings. Many cars, motorcycle taxis, tutus and bicycles lord over the road. Original or mixed ethnic Chinese Cambodian dominates the population. There are many Chinese (from China, Taiwan, Singapore) businessmen here and we could spot several shops and stores bearing name in Chinese. Cost of living is high as we understand most things are imported. US$ is freely accepted along side with Cambodian Riel. We regret there is not enough time to explore south of Cambodia, the idyllic beach resorts at Sihanoukville.

Daphne and I spent our free days sipping afternoon tea at the FCC, drinking at the bar in Raffles Hotel, chilling out by the swimming pool or having our body pampered by the masseuse. It was a great holiday well guided by Boon (in Siem Reap) and Channa (in Phnom Penh), Or Goon (thank you in Cambodian)!

Egypt

Wedding in Bangalore

Wedding in Bangalore, India May 6 to 10, 2004

The hassle of applying for India visa and 4hours transit at Bangkok are nothing compared to the joy & fun of attending the wedding of Catherine and Sanjay in Bangalore.

Getting ready for the wedding is great fun for Catherine’s siblings and I. The girl’s looking pretty in Salwar with dozens of bangles, bindi on forehead and mehendi (ancient Indian art of temporary tattoo using Henna) drawn on palms and arms. The guy’s walking tall in Kurta.

Wedding ceremony is a 2hours sit-on-the-floor session with bride & groom facing a Hindu priest with family members on each side, all forming a square with trays of sacred necessities for the ritual – betel leaves, coconuts, rice grains, oil etc. Though I didn’t understand what was spoken, at one point I noticed the priest was, what looked to me ‘lecturing’. A close relative later told me the priest was dishing out advice like a counselor – explaining the importance & responsibilities of marriage to the newly weds.

Wedding banquet is certainly hosted in a very efficient way. Newly weds & families stand on one spot. Guests queue up to give their well wishes, present gifts, exchange small talks and have their photo taken before tucking into the buffet dinner. And this goes on for hours! When the guests have left which is past midnight, it’s time for a sit down dinner for the newly weds & families.

Prior to the wedding, several other rituals are carried out. There are thread ceremony (equivalent to Chinese custom ‘out of garden’?) and wedding fixation at the temple, anointing on the forehead with oil (equivalent to Chinese custom ‘combing of hair’?) and putting on pillow cover! The last is humorous – created out of misunderstanding of wedding custom in this mixed marriage!

It’s my first trip to India. Bangalore city and its people certainly leave a good impression.

Bangalore – also known as Garden City, is the capital of the southern Indian state of Karnataka. Many fully bloomed beautiful flames of the forest trees line the clean streets. Look out for the coconut trees growing out of / leaning on houses! The big cotton trees at Lal Bagh Botanical Gardens are impressive. Climate is moderate as the city is elevated (1000m).

The streets can be jam-packed with traffic especially during peak hours when the wait for change of light is a 2-3minutes affair and motorists switch off their engine while waiting. Certain streets are dusty and full of potholes. It is particularly interesting to see all modes of transportation sharing the streets harmoniously – bull/horse/donkey pulled carts alongside with bicycles, motorcycles, cars (many old vintage cars!) and ‘tuk-tuk’ with meter! Also look out for the guy who irons clothes on the street! Shopping on Commercial Street is like Serangoon Road magnified.

Besides the Indian food (tosai, prata, dal) I eat in Singapore, I get to taste other traditional food – idli, vada, rice in yogurt, pickles (also call ‘achar’) etc. Most food are coconut/milk base and very rich but delicious I must say! And yes, not forgetting the delectable Alphonso mango now in season!

Indians are very hospitable people and have very close family ties. Extended family of great-grandparents/uncles/aunties/cousins/nephews/nieces often gather. A typical Indian, I understand, speak/read at least 2-3 languages excluding English – Hindi, Sindhi, Tamil, Kannada etc. Certainly a race with the gift of gab! And I’m totally confused with the tongue twisting Indian name of people and places!

Sichuan - rich with World Heritage

China Sichuan - rich with World Heritage 8 to 17 Nov 2003

Sichuan province, southwest of China, stands tall with Beijing to own a long list of UNESCO inscribed world heritage site. To feast your eyes on these wonders, set off from Chengdu with at least 6days on hand.

Jiuzhaigou Valley 九寨沟 (Natural World Heritage, 1992) – take a 45min domestic flight or a 12hour coach ride and you will be brought into a fairy wonderland where water in the lake is rich in blue, turquoise or green colour. Multi-colour Lake 五彩池 and Five-Flower Lake五花海 are particularly impressive - I wish I could just stay there one whole day, read a book, sip tea and simply enjoy the scenery. Among the many beautiful waterfalls, Pearl Beach Fall 珍珠滩瀑布 is absolutely magnificent. However, this paradise could be more perfect if we had arrived 2 weeks earlier where leaves were in beautiful shades of red, orange and yellow. To complete your day, enjoy an evening cultural show with Tibetan藏 and Qiang姜族flavour, say hello “za-ci-de-le” 扎西德勒 and watch a tug-of-war fight for a bride.

Huanglong National Park 黄龙 (Natural World Heritage, 1992) – climb 7km to 3500m high and take in picturesque mountains and multi-colour terraced ponds along the way. If you worry about altitude sickness, fret not as you could rent a pillow of oxygen! And if you are too tired to climb, there are always strong men around, ready to carry you in a dragon chair on bamboo poles滑杆. Around Huanglong, watch out for the permanently snow-covered Xuebaoding (Snow Mountain Peak) as you travel through majestic snowy mountains.

Leshan Giant Buddha乐山大佛,Mount Emei 峨嵋山(Natural World Heritage, 1996) – be dwarfed by the gigantic 71m high buddha carved out of a hillside 1300 years ago to ‘subdue’ the flooding caused by the confluence of 3 rivers (大渡河,青衣江,岷江). Visit Buddhist temple at Mount Emei summit, stay overnight and watch the mesmerizing sunrise. We weren’t lucky – we froze in the thick dark fog and felt the gradual sunlight instead!

Dujiangyan Irrigation System堵江堰 (Cultural World Heritage, 2000) – the 2200 years old project which earned Chengdu the title of ‘Heavenly Kingdom’ 天府之国 blessed with abundant harvest in spite of any drought or flood. Governor Libing cleverly built a gravity irrigation system that is still in use today, to direct Minjiang岷江 waters to greater use for agricultural production. The system comprises mainly 3 parts: Yuzui 鱼嘴 water dividing dyke, Feishayan飞沙堰spillway and Baopingkou宝瓶口water inlet.

Dazu Rock Carvings 大足石雕 (Cultural World Heritage, 1999) – the 4hour drive from Chengdu to Chongqing to see the 800years old rock art is worthy! Be amazed with artistic rock carvings depicting Buddhism, Taoism and Confucianism in harmony.

While in Chengdu, spend 3 more days to visit the other equally impressive places of interest.

Sanxingdui Museum 三星堆 showcases 3000 to 5000 years old relics from 3 sacrificial pits found in 1986. If not for this seemingly superstition of burial offerings when praying to heaven, we will never know the splendid culture in China thousand years ago. Be impressed with intricate jade wares, bronze masks, towering holy tree (a connection between earth and heaven), bird (representing sun –the bird that flies from the eastern holy tree to the west).

At Panda Breeding Area, you get to carry and feed baby red pandas, and understand better this endangered animal - an average short life span of 25years, newborn baby measuring a tiny 15cm. Look out for the well-known Panda “Pride” 娇子 whose face appears in many tourist campaigns and local products like cigarette.

Catch a Sichuan Cultural Show 川剧 and be entertained with the art of Changing Faces, Finger Shadowing and Puppetry. Interestingly, restroom visit is a pull rickshaw ride away. Get to know the people (Liubei, Zhugeliang) who ruled the historical Shu Kingdom蜀 (now Chengdu) at Wuhouci Museum 武侯伺. On Mount Xiling 西岭, you can snow or grass ski and have fun at the numerous thrill rides – but checkout the timing, we were greeted by thick fog and light drizzle with no sight of snow!

Life in and around Chengdu is fairly slow and easy-going. Playing mahjong is definitely a favourite pastime – I spotted numerous open-air sessions happening at front yard. And finally, you can’t leave Sichuan without sampling the spicy steamboat (with lots of coriander花椒 and chilli), wide variety of fresh water fish (the famous邮亭即鱼), local wine 青稞酒, beef (牦牛) and ‘green mountain green water’ tea青山绿水. I still can’t bring myself to stomach the rabbit head though.