Harbin…more than Ice Lantern and Sculpture

Feb1 to 5, 2003

From television, I understand Harbin to be a cold place with exquisite ice lantern and sculpture during winter. Never would I thought I could make it there one day - it seems so far flung, so bitterly cold…how could I survive in subzero climate? But I did it! I spent my Chinese New Year holidays there! And so I found out Harbin's more than a place with ice lantern and sculpture.

Harbin...in China northernmost province Heilongjiang, weather during winter averages -20degree. Arm with a long down jacket, thick or padded pant, shoes, scarf, glove, hat and you will be fine. I'm surprised I took well to the weather. At one point, I forgot how cold it was and was amazed to see vendor just laying ice creams out in the open for sale! I even manage to recover from a cold I caught in Beijing a few days before I depart. Well, partly thanks to the enormous water intake I have.

Harbin...early development started in 1900s with a railway connecting China and Russia. It has a strong Christian and Russian influence…so I found out from the famous St. Sophia Church which is now a museum. Harbin was called "Little Moscow" in early days and indeed I could see beautiful old churches and buildings with Russian architecture as I stroll around. St. Sophia Church museum showcases old photos depicting good old days of Harbin, I could see pictures of Caucasians (presumably Russian) having good times at bars and musical shows.

Harbin...present and future…As I stroll along the main shopping district "ZhongYang DaJie" - Central Big Street, I see Lane Crawford carrying international brand names, fashion houses with Hong Kong brand name, mobile shops bearing big name like Nokia and Motorola. And if you didn't bring enough winter clothing, don't worry, head for departmental stores with 5 to 6 storeys of goodies. Certainly an up market place! The ticket to St. Sophia Church museum also brings me to an interesting exhibition just behind the church. With laser and multi-media, an extremely helpful and friendly guide explains the plan for Harbin tomorrow... a modern city with many high-rise buildings.

Harbin...during Chinese New Year is both quiet and noisy. Since it's the most important occasion in the Chinese custom, most shops and restaurants are close for business, so the streets are fairly quiet. The silence is frequently interrupted with loud firecrackers let off by locals and tourists. There are vendors peddling firecrackers everywhere. And every night I am treated to beautiful fireworks!

Harbin...what attracts tourists during winter? Of course, it's the annual Ice Lantern Art Fair started 29 years ago. At night at Zhaolin Park I see ice sculpture or ice block in all forms and shapes, illuminate from the inside with coloured light tube. Absolutely beautiful! It feels almost like being in a fantasyland! I am particularly impressed with a twin tower probably about 4 storeys high with slides for the brave hearted tourists.

Take a cable car across the frozen Songhua River during the day to Sun Island and you are treated to the magnificent 15th Snow Carving Art Fair. It's amazing to see how people ingeniously use snow to form all forms and shapes…from medium sized mermaid, tellytubbies to gigantic landscape. The artworks from the Children competition are equally impressive. At the international competition section, I spotted a carving by our friendly neighbour Malaysia winning the special award! I understand the snow is man-made as natural snow is too soft for sculpture and isn't enough to cover the whole exhibition park in white! To complete the fun on your return trip, you could cross the river by walking, sitting on sledge pull by dogs, sleigh pull by horses or even ride a horse like I did. But a word of caution - the frozen river may not be thick enough! Besides these designated fairs, I could see many other ice sculptures along the streets, even the street stores and signpost are made up of ice blocks!

Harbin...where is the best place to stay? I reckon Gloria Hotel is the best, a 4 star local chain hotel. It's next to the famous Songhua River and within walking district to Zhongyang Dajie. I didn’t manage a room there - result of last minute booking. I stayed at Shangri-la which provides free down jacket to guest...big warm jacket but with Shang's name and logo printed on the front and back! Luckily my jacket serves me well. Shang's service is superb though its location could be better - need to spend about 10RMB taxi fare to get to town. But I think it pays to stay in better or reputable hotel in Harbin. On second day of my stay here, a fire broke out at a small local hotel and it sent several phone calls from Singapore.

Harbin...what else…you see plenty of street vendors peddling mutton satay, barbeque sweet potatoes, roasted chestnut, sugar coated fruits (the Chinese called it 'pin tang hulu') which comes with strawberry, kiwi or banana but the most traditional one is the red round Hawthorn (you know "siang zhar"?). I bought one pin tang hulu for RMB3 from one vendor and a few seconds later I heard a vendor nearby shouting RMB1 each! Also being ripped RMB38 off for two honey peaches. Well, I guess you give some and take some. Dinner at Portman Bar is a steal. Delicious western food costing about RMB30 each person comes with nice ambience and live performance by violinist and pianist.

Harbin...what have I missed? Probably the northeast tiger at Sun Island Zoo (well, there are plenty of tigers at the Singapore Zoo), skiing at nearby resort (well, next time!) and underground shopping (probably just another shopping place!).

Harbin...Interesting place indeed!

Five days at Harbin is a long time, well…besides touring around, it's also a time for me to catch up with my sleep, reading, movie and exercise! Now fully rested and ready to brave the hectic weeks ahead!